Shanghai Xiao Long Bao Kitchen Aan Shinjuku
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Two things I will tell you for free: Eriko and I love Chinese food, and our favorite type of Chinese food is dumplings. Okay? I’m glad we were able to have this little talk.
Chinese soup dumplings, AKA Xiao Long Bao, are one of humanity’s greatest achievements. When I was growing up in Nebraska, we had your basic Americanized Chinese food like cashew chicken and such, but dim sum was something we only heard tales of from those who’d journeyed far and wide. Never did I imagine that I, Gregg, would get to taste such delicacies.
Anyway, on White Day 2025, Eriko said she was in the mood for Xiao Long Bao, so we went to find some for lunch. If you’re wondering how to say “Xiao Long Bao,” it’s pronounced “Show lawn poe.” Do you pronounce it differently? Good news: I just checked, and it turns out you can, in fact, screw yourself. So that’s good.
The one bad thing about this restaurant as a lunch choice was that it was in Shinjuku. If you’re unfamiliar, Shinjuku is a big sprawling mess of a station with ten billion people and exactly zero signs telling you where you are or how to get out of there despite the wealth of empty wall space. Legend has it, there are people who were born inside Shinjuku Station who’ve been wandering around ever since, dying at a ripe old age without ever making it to the outside.
Once we’d escaped the impossible maze of construction and jerks that is this train station, we had to confront a second problem. If I were to ask you, “Where in the world does Google Maps not work?” you’d probably say “deep in the heart of the jungle” or “at the bottom of the ocean.” I’m guessing “The busiest part of Tokyo, one of the largest cities on Earth” would not be your first guess. And yet.
When you try to use Google Maps in a busy part of Tokyo, it will appear to work. The blue dot will be there. Then, as you stare at it, the blue dot will move. It will cross the street, spin around, and wander off wherever it pleases. You cannot know where you are. You are everywhere and nowhere.
What I’m saying is that we’d never been to this restaurant before and it took a minute to find. But eventually we found it and got some dumplings.
Shanghai Xiao Long Bao in Shinjuku
The restaurant is on the fifth floor of a building, requiring an elevator ride to get to. Americans might be surprised by the idea of a restaurant on the fifth floor, but such a thing is quite common here. The space is relatively small, and we got the impression that this is a spot that only locals know about. No white people in sight, and several lone diners shoving lunch into their faces before rushing back to work.
Here’s another strange thing about Japan: you never pay at the table. Even at nice restaurants, except for super fancy ones, you walk up front and pay at a counter. This makes sense when you realize that Japanese people don’t tip, so there’s no reason for the servers handling food to also be handling dirty money. At Shanghai Kitchen Aan, the place where people pay was right behind my chair, so not only was there a lot of shuffling about behind me throughout lunch, but at one point there was a long line of folks just standing there staring at us. Other than that, the service was great, prompt and polite.
The menu at Shinjuku Kitchen Aan
They had physical menus on the table, but we didn’t need them. Like many restaurants these days, there was a QR code that led to an online menu. This allows diners to view the menu in their language of choice and order through their phones, eliminating the need to wait for and talk to a server. It was Eriko’s day (known as White Boy Day in our house), so she was in charge of ordering. She got an orange juice and I got a guava juice. Both were good.
Spring rolls and spicy chicken at Shanghai Kitchen Aan Shinjuku
First up were some crispy spring rolls. I was surprised by how many we got, because usually spring rolls are a rip off with just two tiny rolls. Not here. We dipped them in a combo of soy sauce and vinegar that Eriko expertly made, and they were good - definitely better than I expected. You could really taste the veggies inside.
That said, how good can a spring roll be? Every time we get dim sum, I always find the spring rolls to be my least favorite thing. Maybe it’s time to eliminate them from the rotation.
The next thing we got was our only non-dumpling dish, fried chicken with bell peppers and spicy doo-dads. I love spicy stuff and fried chicken, so I was in heaven here. Eriko maybe only had one or two bites. I devoured this thing and I am not sorry for it.
Xiao Long Bao at Shanghai Kitchen Aan Tokyo
Soup dumplings are a test of resilience. They usually come toward the beginning of the meal, but you can’t eat them yet - the soup is too hot. So you have to sit there, looking at them, lusting after their delicious soupiness, until it’s time. I usually crack early and try mine first, burning my mouth in the process.
With some tasty fresh ginger and vinegar, these were, of course, delicious. Soup dumplings are always great, but these were especially good. Better than the ones we had in Yokohama Chinatown. Loved them. They were what we came there for, and they did not disappoint.
Eel soup dumplings at Shanghai Xiao Long Bao
As soon as we saw eel soup dumplings on the menu, we knew we had to try them. We love eel (had unagi on our first date, in fact) and love soup dumplings, yet had never had the two together. These seem to be the signature dish of this restaurant, displayed prominently on the menu and in pictures online.
The bottom was crispy, something we’d never seen in a soup dumpling before. They also had some seeds and green onions on top, mostly for presentation.
Upon tasting them, we immediately understood why these are the signature dish. SO delicious. Like a regular soup dumpling, but with this extra unique taste. Beyond how delicious the broth was, they were also filled to the brim. It seems the crispy bottom allows them to fit even more goodies inside without bursting the dumpling.
These eel soup dumplings were an absolute highlight. I’d say if we were to go back, I’d be happy ordering all the same stuff except for the spring rolls. Maybe we can replace them with more soup dumplings. We’ll see.
Verdict: is Shanghai Xiao Long Bao worth trying?
Absolutely. This place manages to put forth traditional and experimental Chinese food in a casual atmosphere with convenient service and a low price point. That’s almost impossible, yet they do it.
Check that receipt. 4,610 yen on that day was about $31. That’s $15.50 apiece for a memorable meal in a pricey part of town. Marvelous.
I would recommend this place to anyone, whether you’ve had soup dumplings before or not, whether you live in Tokyo or you’re a tourist. The next time we go to Shinjuku (not soon, if I have anything to say about it), we’re absolutley combining our visit with a trip to Shanghai Xiao Long Bao. Count on it.
Where to find Shanghai Xiao Long Bao Kitchen Aan Shinjuku in Tokyo
Address: 〒160-0022 Tokyo, Shinjuku City, Shinjuku, 3 Chome−28−2 LUNAGE 新宿5F
Phone: 03-3355-5705
Hours: M-Th 12pm-3pm, 5pm-11pm; Fri 12pm-3pm, 5pm-11:30pm; Sat-Sun 12pm-4pm, 5pm-11pm.
Just searching for the name of this place is unlikely to cut it when dealing with Google Maps, so you’re better off using the link above or cutting and pasting this: 上海小籠包 厨房 阿杏本店. This is a cheap restaurant with great food. Go there. Trust me.
