Nara Koen, the Nara Deer Park

Less than an hour by train east of Osaka lies Nara, the ancient capital of Japan. Famous for its many temples and shrines, Nara is popular with tourists who come to see sights like the Todai-ji temple and its famous Daibutsu statue of the Buddha.

I first visited Nara back in 2007, and when I returned to Japan in 2017, I was shocked by how much the city has changed and how packed with tourists it’s become. I imagine this increase in visitors is largely due to the online popularity of Nara’s most famous residents: the 1,200 or so tame deer who inhabit the Nara Deer Park.

The Nara Koen (Koen means park, btw) is a large area within the city not far from the most popular temples. If you’re on your way from the station to see the Daibutsu, the park is the first thing you’ll encounter. The deer live within the park, and are used to seeing people. They roam around freely and likely won’t react to your presence at all when they first see you.

The reason the deer are in the park is due to an old legend: the deity of Nara’s Kasuga Taisha Shrine is Takemi Kajichi no Mikoto, who is said to have ridden to Nara on a sacred deer. Thus, the deer hold a special place in the city’s history and culture.

They seem to know it. If you’re walking down the street and there’s a deer chilling on the sidewalk, you’re gonna have to go around because they will not move for you. It’s their town.

These deer are not shy around humans, and it’s possible to feed them for a photo op. You can buy senbei, or crackers, from vendors at a rate of three for 100 yen. They’re big crackers, and come wrapped in string. As soon as you get them, the deer will take notice and come running.

I got the feeling they would eat THROUGH me to get to the crackers.

You’ll find yourself immediately surrounded by deer mobbing you for treats. Best to give them the crackers quickly. After they’ve had their fill, they mostly just chill around the park, and you can walk up to them and get a few pictures taken.

She’s already looking for her next cracker fix.

As an American who’s used to deer who run away at the sight of humans (or get struck by cars), this is a unique experience. If there’s anywhere in Japan you absolutely have to visit, it’s Nara, and the first thing you should see is the deer park. We’ll probably cover other parts of the city in future posts, but this place is truly special. Go there. Now. Do it. I dare you.